Let's talk about how to move in and out of the water so that you're not hurt by the power of the waves.
In knee to thigh deep water turn your hips and shoulders sideways to keep your balance as you slice through the force of the waves with one foot planted behind you to brace against the wave. In water above your waist the safest place is under and not over the whitewater of breaking waves. Face the oncoming wave and duck, don't dive, putting your head down and fingers in the sand below. If you are paddling, swimming, or walking back to the beach never completely turn your back on the waves. Use the same method you used to get into the water as you return to the beach.
You aren't safe until your feet are on dry sand. To have fun and stay safe, always respect the power of the ocean and be wave safe.